Our holiday with a difference seemed to be speeding towards its end. We wanted to attend the pilgrims mass and then explore the old town.
We took up our position in a knave with a great view of the altar. The mass wasn’t due to begin for over fifty minutes yet the cathedral was already filling up with all the mass-goers intending on having the best view possible. We were frequently reminded at various times that it was a living working cathedral dedicated to Saint James.
A small nun came out onto the altar and began to sing in an angelic voice, it was crystal clear and seemed to soar to the heavens, never mind the Cathedral roof. She welcomed the mass procession onto the altar. Mass itself was much as any other in a foreign language undoubtedly the highlight for me was the sole singing nun.
When the mass ended, the thurible was guided by expert pullers (tiraboleiros) by a pulley system throughout the ceremony. The thurible was guided onto the altar which indicates the ceremony is about to begin. It is then raised up and swung from one side of the cathedral to the other as the priest prays and hymns are sung. It is a fantastic sight and well worth the wait. I don’t think I can adequetely do it justice, however there are a number of videos on youtube worth watching or alternatively you can search botafumeiro.
As we left the cathedral a number of police were guiding the pilgrims and seemed to acting as body guards for the retired King Juan Carlos and his wife Queen Sofia. I was able to take a couple of photos and I’ve included. Apart from the police and bodyguards they seemed like rather elegant church goers.
We then set off to explore the old town and to pay a visit to the local market. Though at that stage many of the stalls were closing for the day but there was enough open to give us a flavour of the fresh food market, including meat, fish of all types with some stalls specialising in produce for the local speciality, pulpo a la Gallega, galician octopus, or various types of seafoods which I have to say I enjoyed with relish. Do try the pulpo but I definitely think its an acquired taste.
The sun shone brilliantly and we found a cafe on the edge of the market to enjoy a coffee and watch the world go by. It was hard to believe it was the 14th October as the temperatures reached to over 20 degrees celsius.
Later that evening we assembled in the bar of the parador for pre-dinner drinks and met other fellow pilgrims who’d only arrived in Santiago that day as they had split our long day (Tuesday) over a couple of days. I think it would have been worth it to conserve energy but I might just pass that on to would be walkers.
Again we headed out to explore the town and all it had to offer for dinner and entertainment and we were not disappointed. Though the locals only seemed to be heading out when we were getting ready to retire.
The following morning a heavy mist descended on the city but it soon became very heavy rain. We were thankful that we weren’t walking in that downpour. It did feel as though it was time to go home. We spent a quiet morning in the parador’s lounge only heading out for lunch when the weather took a turn for the better. All too soon it was time to leave for the airport and check in for our flight home.
It was a very different holiday and I’m not sure that you could even call it that, bu I met very nice people, cemented friendships and it was very thought provoking. I’m not sure that I could do all 790 kms of the Camino Frances but I do know that I will be back to undertake another Camino at some point. Buen Camino !
A couple of photos but they only give a glimpse of the city.
Ger Moroney 